Trip Report
West Cape Howe
February 2003
Pioneer World at Armadale was the meeting point for the convoy and at 08:15 we departed to travel along Albany Highway
with ideal weather. Not far from Armadale Rex pointed out his old
family homestead and later on we stopped to have a look at a
pioneer grave site memorial to Rex's great great grandfather John
Marsh who came to Australia in 1850 with 7 of his 11 children and
lived on this property and ran a horse-change depot.
We interrupted our trip to Mt. Barker for lunch by stopping at
Williams for a coffee break and at Kojonup for a toilet stop.
Feeling high in spirits at Mt. Barker and pleased with our luck
in having mild sunny weather we all chipped in with $5 each
couple to try our luck at lotto tickets. A positive result the
following day would round off the weekend nicely. After a brief
look around the town checking out the shops and buying bait for
the weekend we continued the trip via Narrikup on gravel roads
and headed south through Chorkerup and Redmond to the South Coast
Highway. After crossing the South Coast Highway we passed Torbay
down the Cosy Corner road then turned off to Shelley Beach
camping area where we were to be based for the next three days.
The camp sites are well managed with a gas bbq, new toilet,
running stream and grassed sites right on the edge of the
beach.
As soon as we had erected the tents we were entertained by a display
of hang gliding for the next hour when an individual jumped off
the cliff above us and hovered motionless in the sea breeze
rising up the cliff face, then soared to various heights,
travelling out to sea and returned to land on the beach. This all
happened while we were beachcombing searching for colourful sea
shells, and cuttlefish shell for the canaries at home.
No fires
are allowed in the national park so most people had an early
dinner that night and gathered for a social evening until 21:30.
A strong shift in wind that night caused a few occupants of tents
to get up during the night to adjust tent ropes and pegs that had
pulled loose. This was also a warm humid night that obviously
suited the mosquito population as they caught us by surprise and
made themselves known to us by their persistent attention.
Saturday morning most woke early. Caroline, Greg, Glenys and Rex
went for a walk up the hill before breakfast. The breakfast
process saw a flurry of hasty activity as we watched rain out at
sea making its way toward us and we thought this could be another
typical SW rainy weekend. We had no sooner completed breakfast
and the rain squall passed over us lasting about 5 minutes. Then
the weather returned to clear sky and sunny conditions
afterwards. This was the only rain we had the whole weekend. Well
done Glenys and Rex for picking the right weekend.
At this stage
of the trip Lyn and Roger had still not joined the convoy. They
left Perth on Saturday morning and said they would join up with
us at our next destination at Dunsky Beach where we would enjoy
the swimming and fishing. The sand tracks to West Cape Howe made
it an enjoyable experience with panoramic views over the
coastline towards Torbay. On our way we passed kangaroos watching
us with much interest, as there are probably not many cars
passing that way. When we arrived on the other side of the cape
we found high cliff faces subjected to the power of large ocean
swells and waves. Because of the height of the cliffs and rugged
rock faces this area is known as a challenging rock climbing
venue. As it happened while we were there a couple of young males
arrived specifically for cliff face climbing with all the proper
rock climbing apparatus. One was a doctor at SCGH and the other
an environmental consultant. We stayed there for morning tea then
made our way towards Dunsky Beach.
Dunsky Beach is an idyllic
location with white sand, clear water, picturesque rock
formations, isolation from crowds and an ideal camping spot under
a grove of shady trees. There are no facilities but that is what
makes the location so good as a get away from it all
destination
We
had only been there and set ourselves up for fishing for about 10
minutes with Richard and Linda having a swim, Caroline, Marilyn
and Glenys comfortably set up in their deck chairs and beach
umbrellas on the beach, Rex, Graeme and Greg perched on rocks at
the end of the beach and Gillian and Dennis further down toward
the middle of the beach when large schools of salmon chasing
herring were sighted in several shoals in the Bay. As one of the
shoals approached the beach there were loud screams from the
seated women as we thought they were being attacked by something.
They jumped up screaming loudly and ran towards the water edge
jumping around in circles like a crazed ritualistic dance lunging
their arms towards the waves. From a distant viewpoint it
appeared like their consumption of jungle juice the night before
was having a belated effect. These screams and squeals went on
for about three minutes. It was a relief to find out they were
not under the influence of any drugs but were attempting to scoop
up flapping herring that had beached themselves in their attempt
to evade the predatory salmon in their pursuit.
After collecting
some of the herring they were used as bait and had immediate
results with the marauding salmon. Rex and Dennis hooked five
salmon in the short period the shoal remained at the beach but
only two were beached. The salmon were of large size and put up
tremendous displays of power as they tried to disgorge the hooks
by jumping above the water and performing catapults in the air.
It was a very exciting brief period of what fishing along the
south coast is all about. No sooner had the shoal moved further
out into the bay than Roger and Lyn arrived to join us and cast a
line. So……ladies, not a bad effort. You caught the
most fish and not a hook, line or sinker amongst you. Well done.
Graeme however was not without mention on this fishing
expedition. He managed to hook the largest catch….. an
85kg Greg by a well aimed hook to the leg. Alas, Greg got away. I
am not sure about the truth to the rumour that Graeme tossed his
hat into the ocean in disgust.
After a coffee break under the grove of trees we decided
to continue driving around West Cape Howe to the other side
facing west. Roger suggested we look at a beach that was a
fishing spot for him on previous trips. Roger's suggestion paid
off as after climbing down to the beautiful beach he found an
almost new surfers wet suit that will complement his mask,
snorkel and fins if he can fit into it.
We left this magnificent
coastline scenery along the West Cape Howe National Park and
headed back to our campsite for dinner to cook the day's catch.
Some of the members spent the rest of the afternoon with their
feet up with can in hand commiserating each other over the lotto
result, while others tried their luck at Shelly Beach using the
remainder of their bait. This beach was full of seaweed so the
bait was given to other fishermen with more patience.
Reports
that night from diners were indicating varying degrees of success
in the cooking skills for salmon. Another evening of good social
intercourse was enjoyed during a mild night without the stiff
breeze of the previous night. Most people reported sleeping
better this night without the humidity.
Most arose early again
and the smell of bacon and eggs etc., permeating the air prompted
those that had not planned to indulge, to not resist the
temptation. This wholesome breakfast was needed as extra energy
for the morning's activity of walking the Bibbulmun Track from
Cosy Corner back to Shelly Beach. All (except Lyn who stayed back
at camp doing crosswords) piled into two cars and drove to Cosy
Corner camp grounds. The walk started with a walk up the hill
with a flight of stairs similar to Jacobs Ladder. It was then
generally a gradual upward route to the hill behind Shelly Beach
where it descended the steep hill to the campsite oceanside.
During the course of the trek we stopped for refreshments at one
of the overnight huts provided on the track. We left an entry in
the visitor's book.
We
were very lucky again as the weather had turned overcast with a
slight breeze making ideal hiking conditions. The walk took us
through attractive varied bushland with spectacular views down to
the ocean across Torbay to Eclipse Island off Albany's Torndirrup
National Park headland. Rex telephoned Lyn toward the end of the
trek and Lyn had the kettle ready for tea and coffee when we
arrived at camp. The walk took 2 hours 40 minutes.
We settled
down for a while and had lunch. Some stayed in camp that
afternoon while others travelled the short distances either to
Albany or Denmark. This period of the weekend itinerary occurred
because Rex could not wait to see his mother-in-law in Albany.
Most returned to camp for dinner but Gillian and Dennis decided
to spoil themselves whilst in Albany and had a Pub roast dinner.
Post dinner desert was organised as a combined effort
pikelet/cream/strawberry jam serving. We later discovered after
digesting the pikelets why Glenys suggested why we had better
have this course. The pikelet mix was six months beyond its use
by date. This just shows what a sturdy bunch we are as we
survived the gastronomic experience well. Maybe it was due to
Caroline's and Linda's cooking talents. Richard must have
particularly enjoyed the supper as he volunteered to do the
dishes. To top things off to an enjoyable day Greg & Caroline and
Richard & Linda supplied a variety of Ports before bedtime.
On
Monday morning we were breakfasted and packed up by 08:15. Graeme
and Marilyn left us here so they could stay four days with some
friends who live in Albany. The rest of us left for Denmark
bakery to buy our morning tea to be consumed at a historic chapel
near Mt. Barker. The chapel is owned by the Anglican Church and
dedicated to Saint Werburgh 659-690 A.D. It was built in 1873. It
is a quaint church of unusual design.
Our next stop was to the
top of Mt. Barker discovered in 1829 by Thomas Wilson and named
after Capt. Collet Barker in the 39th Regiment at King George
Sound Settlement (Albany). There are good views of the
surrounding countryside. The mountain is 404 metres above sea
level and on the peak of the mountain is a tower 167 metres high
providing TV and music transmission to the whole region on behalf
of ABC 2, GWN 9 and ABC stereo music.
Whilst at Mt. Barker
Caroline and Greg said farewell as they had to be back in Perth
early. The rest of us continued on to the Fox River winery for
tasting and purchase of some bottles. This was a $1M showroom
that will be part of a $10M development. Next stop on the way
home was the park in Kojonup town where we had lunch. Heading off
to Perth again Fleckerel left the convoy at Arthur River to stop
off for diesel. The tail end of the convoy arrived at Armadale at
15:15 concluding a great trip ably planned and led by Rex and
Glenys. On behalf of the convoy Rex and Glenys we would like to
congratulate you both on making this an enjoyable
experience.
Report by Fleckerel
Last updated 14Nov04
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