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The Holland Track

The Toyota Land Cruiser Club has taken up the project of maintaining and, where appropriate upgrading, the Holland Track in conjunction with CALM and Track Care Western Australia. A trip along the track provides the opportunity for travellers to enjoy the pristine wilderness through which the track runs.

The lure of gold at Coolgardie brought fortune seekers by steamer to Albany to start the long trek to the goldfields. There was an obvious advantage for potential prospectors in a direct route with support from businesses along the way that would benefit from passing the trade. In spite of previous failed attempts John Holland, an experienced bushman, mounted a carefully planned expedition to not only find a way but to also cut a track that could be used immediately by horse drawn conveyances. The explorers left in April 1893 and in 2 months and 4 days cut a track of over 500kms through dense thickets between Broome Hill and Coolgardie. 18,000 people used the short cut over the next 3 years, up until the last link of the railway to Coolgardie was completed providing a rail link to the goldfields.

The southern half of the track was largely incorporated onto the expanding wheat growing areas during the 1920's. For almost a century the northern half (from east of Hyden to Coolgardie) was all but abandoned and the area reverted back to pristine bushland except for some intrusions by sandalwood cutters. Present day access is a tribute to Graeme Newbey (Broome Hill farmer) and Adrian Malloy (researcher) who were determined to reopen the track. They led a group in November 1992 and with the aid of Graeme's tractor succeeded in cutting the track from Wattle Rocks (about 22Km north of the Hyden Norseman Road) to Thursday Rock (about 70Km south of Coolgardie). In June 1993 Graeme led a 4wd Centenary Expedition along the newly opened track to mark the centenary of Holland's historic journey.

Since then, Max Burton has agreement in principle from CALM to extend the track north of Thursday Rock (where the current "Newby track" ends) to an alignment much closer to that of Holland's track, thus preserving another significant part of the state's history for recreational 4 wheel drivers to enjoy.

In such inhospitable country water is an issue. Hence the track links a series of huge granite outcrops where after rain, water collects in pools in the rocks, an important resource to sustain the early travellers to the goldfields. Where water sheds off the rocks on average there are much higher moisture levels giving rise to unique and fragile mini eco systems much more abundant in flora and fauna and quite different from the surrounding countryside. Furthermore as the profile of the rocks extend underground the water at the base is prevented from escaping. Driving to the edge of rocks can be disastrous. Firstly the vehicle may break through the seemingly hard surface into soft wet subsoil and become hopelessly bogged. Secondly and more importantly the fragile mini eco system can suffer irreparable damage and the landscape scarred for decades. A strategy to preserve delicate environments in these vulnerable areas is to erect fences or bollards and signs encouraging only pedestrian traffic to the base of the rock.

At one point the track ran over the toe of an active mallee fowl nest (certainly active in November 2002). Mallee fowls were once common in the wheat-belt but destruction of their habitat and the introduction of feral animals( foxes & cats ) means they exist only in a few wilderness areas. They bury their eggs in a mound several metres in diameter and regularly add to or remove the nest material to control the temperature for incubation. Disturbing the nest or walking over it may destroy the eggs. The track has been diverted away from the nest; bollards and a sign have been installed to protect the mallee fowl and their offspring.

The Department of Conservation and Land Management (CALM) has jurisdiction over the area through which the modern track runs. With support from CALM and Track Care WA Inc, the Toyota Land Cruiser Club (TLCC) has volunteered to maintain and upgrade the track. To this end the TLCC has been involved in:

  • Erecting signs to direct travelers along the track
  • Carrying out repairs to the track
  • Repairing environmental damage
  • Erecting bollards and fencing
  • Protecting an active mallee fowl nest

The TLCC's interest, as with all tracks, is to promote responsible use of the track and preserve the environment, to develop a win/win situation so that if we contribute towards looking after tracks they will remain open for the enjoyment of all 4WDrivers. Particular issues on the Holland Track are:

  • Minimising impact on the track and environment by restricting convoys to no more than 10 vehicles at a time.
  • Keeping to the made track.
  • Avoiding periods after heavy rain when there is a significant risk of bogging and track damage.
  • Only walking (no vehicles) in the often very wet and environmentally sensitive areas near the large granite rocks.
  • Camping only in established cleared areas.
  • Taking all your rubbish with you.

A book "Explore the Holland Track and Cave Hill Woodlands" has been prepared Nick Underwood (editor of Western 4WDriver) and Ian Elliot (researcher of the Holland Track) and may be obtained from 4WD accessory shops and newsagents. Permission is not required to use the Holland Track. The TLCC travels the track at least annually (usually more frequently), is happy to provide information on the track and appreciates (and receives) feedback from people using the track. May you enjoy travelling the pristine environment traversed by the Holland Track.

If you do travel the track, please take some time when you get home to contact us regarding track conditions and other points of interest.

Last updated 14Nov04

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